Julien Brocard Chablis Boissonneuse 2023 SPS21 One tried-and-true trick to find

One tried-and-true trick to find good value is to seek out a great producer's entry-level wine — and few estates reward that approach like Bruno Giacosa

yet still light on its feet

medium-bodied and cleanly made

If Chablis had bubbles

Now they prefer to think of themselves as one of Burgundy's top domaines

Julien Brocard Chablis Boissonneuse 2023 SPS21 One tried-and-true trick to findJulien Brocard was the first person in Chablis to farm biodynamically, and he started right here, converting the Boissonneuse vineyard in 1997 when the rest of the region thought he'd lost the plot. The site is a single hillside holding beside the village of Prehy, planted on Kimmeridgian limestone so packed with fossil shells that the connection between ancient seabed and salty white wine stops being a metaphor. The wine ferments and ages in large